Over the summer we took some time out to visit some of our Parisian suppliers. We also visited Chateau Versailles, resided in by the very important Marie Antoinette- Breguet’s most famous royal patron. A fantastic sourcing trip allowing us to visit some of the worlds best watch showrooms on the Champs-Elysées including the Cartier shop.
Patek Philippe Caliber 89 Patek Philippe is one of the oldest and most prestigious watch companies in the world. Founded by Antoni Norbert de Patek and Franciszek Czapek in 1839, the company was originally known as PATEK, CZAPEK & Co. In 1845, Patek and Czapek separated so that the company became Patek & Co. In [...]
The Steve McQueen Monaco Watch Steve McQueen was one of the most fascinating Hollywood screen legends to date. He had the exciting image of an adventure-seeking, daredevil young man that women would fawn over and that men would look up to. Seeing him in films like the Magnificent Seven, The Towering Inferno and The Great [...]
It would seem that no other watch has made as much of an impact as the Omega Speedmaster. This watch model was especially chosen by NASA to be worn by their astronauts during the Apollo space program. Interestingly, the Omega Speedmaster was not specifically designed to be worn in outer space. It was actually available [...]
The Cartier Roadster Since its conception in 1847, the “Jeweler of Kings and the Kings of Jeweler”, his descendants and eventual new owners, have continuously designed and manufactured the finest watch. Though the Cartier brand was founded by Louis-Francois Cartier, it was the genius of Louis Cartier, the grandson, which made Cartier, watches a leading [...]
Over the summer we took some time out to visit some of our Parisian suppliers. We also visited Chateau Versailles, resided in by the very important Marie Antoinette- Breguet’s most famous royal patron.
A fantastic sourcing trip allowing us to visit some of the worlds best watch showrooms on the Champs-Elysées including the Cartier shop.
Patek Philippe is one of the oldest and most prestigious watch companies in the world. Founded by Antoni Norbert de Patek and Franciszek Czapek in 1839, the company was originally known as PATEK, CZAPEK & Co. In 1845, Patek and Czapek separated so that the company became Patek & Co. In 1851, Patek joined efforts with Jean-Adrien Philippe thus forming the Patek Philippe & Cie label.
Patek Philippe made the first wristwatch in 1868. The prestigious company moved on to gather about 70 patents in perpetual calendar for pocket watches; precision regulator; split seconds chronograph; double chronograph and first self-winding wristwatch to name a few.
The deaths of Anton Patek (1877) and Jean-Adrien Philippe (1894) brought about the eventual acquisition of the company by Charles Stern in 1932. The change of ownership did not change the company’s goal of producing excellent and innovative time pieces.
In 1989, Patek Philippe celebrated its 150th anniversary. To commemorate the event, Patek Philippe presented the Calibre 89, declared as the most complicated watch in the world. It has 33 complications edging out the Henry Graves Jr. super-complicated watch with 24 complications also made by Patek Philippe in 1933.
Patek Philippe Calibre 89 is an astronomical open-faced watch with twin dials. Its 33 complications are divided into five functional categories namely: timekeeping; chronograph; calendar; chime and operational functions. It weighs 1.1 kg, has 1,728 components and 24 hands. It is made of 18 karat gold at an estimated value of US$5 to US$6 million. The watch took about five years of intensive research and development to conceptualize. It took another four years to finally set the wheels in motion in manufacturing the watch.
There are only four models of Calibre 89 made by Patek Philippe – one of each in white gold, yellow gold, rose gold and platinum. It was said that an unidentified royal family bought the whole collection. However, the collection was separated, as in 2004, the white gold edition of Calibre 89 was auctioned at Antiquorum’s 30th anniversary for US$5,002,652. Just recently, the Calibre 89 in the yellow gold edition was auctioned off at Antiquorum’s 35th anniversary for US$ 4,877,662.00. That leaving the rose and platinum edition still at the hands of its original buyer.
What makes this pocket watch so interesting and complicated? Imagine cramming 33 functions in to a single pocket watch. Imagine having that watch and actually using all the functions or just basically knowing how the watch ticks.
On the front dial are the following complications: day of the month; hour hands; 12-hour recorder; up-down chime; day of the week; hour of second time-zone; Chronograph second hand; Seconds hand; Moonphases; Winding crown position indicator; Century decade and year displays; Leap Year Indicator; Minutes Hands; Chronograph counter; Power Reserve; Month; Split second hand and thermometer.
The second dial has the sidereal time hour hand; time of sunrise; star chart; date of Easter Equation of time, Sun hand, sidereal time minute hand and sidereal time second hand and the time of sunset.
A beautiful and complicated time piece like this only comes once in a lifetime, well in this case four times!
The Steve McQueen Monaco Watch Steve McQueen was one of the most fascinating Hollywood screen legends to date. He had the exciting image of an adventure-seeking, daredevil young man that women would fawn over and that men would look up to. Seeing him in films like the Magnificent Seven, The Towering Inferno and The Great Escape, you will certainly not doubt Mc Queens an intense star quality.
One of the most interesting things about Steve McQueen is his penchant for racing motorcycles and cars. In fact, the actor did most of the driving and vehicle stunts in his movies, (except for a few which he was not allowed to do because of insurance restrictions). His driving scenes in The Great Escape and Bullitt are actually some of the most memorable scenes in movie history.
So when Steve McQueen chose to wear the Tag Heuer Monaco watch for his role in the 1971 racing film, Le Mans, the timepiece has a become part of the screen icon’s legacy. The watch was made to match Steve McQueens racing suit in the movie. Interestingly, the suit was also a replica of the one worn by Jo Siffert, the first racer sponsored by Tag Heuer.
However, the Monaco watch by Tag Heuer has already made its mark before it was associated with Steve McQueen. It was the first water-resistant watch in history to be enclosed in square casing, which broke the watchmaking tradition of round casings. It is also the first automatic chronograph, powered by the Chronomatic Calibre 11. This means that it was the first watch to automatically rewind itself by using a microrotor.
In 2005, the Monaco watch was reissued by Tag Heuer, in honour of what should have been the 75th birthday of Steve McQueen. This new version is a little different from the original model, as the original blue dial was changed to white. It also further matches the McQueen/Siffert suit in Le Mans because it was decorated with red, blue and white bands. Despite the new version using a push-button buckle in its blue alligator bracelet; it still projects the classic elegance of the original model.
Currently, Tag Heuer offers three watch models in its Monaco line – the Calibre 12 Automatic Chronograph, the Monaco Automatic and the Sixty Nine.
The Calibre 12 Automatic Chronograph is the one that resembles the Steve McQueen Monaco the most and all aspects of its design is inspired by the famous actor. The watch is water-resistant up to 100 meters and has three subcounters, which shows the minute clock at 9 o’clock, the date clock at 6 o’clock and the second clock at 3 o’clock. The case has Sapphire crystal glass and is measured at 39mm. This model comes in either blue or black alligator bracelet, with safe push-button folding buckles.
Iconic Watches loves the icon Steve Mc Queen and in tern remember that Iconic Watches can source any Tag heuer watch at approx. 20% RRP.
It would seem that no other watch has made as much of an impact as the Omega Speedmaster. This watch model was especially chosen by NASA to be worn by their astronauts during the Apollo space program. Interestingly, the Omega Speedmaster was not specifically designed to be worn in outer space. It was actually available in the market from 1957, before the NASA selection.
Aside from its primary time-keeping function, the watch’s third hand has a stopwatch or chronograph function. The Speedmaster also has three extra dials found on its face. There is one dial each for every second, minute and hour elapsed. These dials are all in keeping with the watch’s chronograph functions.
In 1962, NASA started purchasing watches for evaluation and that is how the Speedmaster received the honor of being the first watch on the moon. During these evaluations, various watch models were tested in conditions that NASA professionals believed they would be subjected to, especially during EVA or Extra-vehicular activity. The Speedmaster came out on top among the other models. The watch was worn the conventional way when on Earth or inside the space shuttle. However, when the astronauts were suited up, the watch is fitted with a Velcro strap designed to be worn on the wrist outside the space suit.
Omega Speedmasters were worn by Buzz Aldrin and Neil Armstrong during the moon expedition. Soon after this historical event, the Speedmaster became better known as the Moonwatch. Only Buzz Aldrin’s Speedmaster made the trip back to Earth. This is because Neil Armstrong left his own in the Lunar Module during an EVA, as the in-cabin time malfunctioned and he actually used the watch as a replacement.
Upon his return to Earth, Buzz Aldrin agreed to loan his Moonwatch to the Smithsonian Institution as part of its exhibit. Unfortunately, the watch disappeared on transit and its exact whereabouts is unknown. This event was documented in Buzz Aldrin’s book, “Return to Earth”, published in 1973. There, he clearly stated that he packed the watch for pick-up by the Smithsonian. But by the time it arrived at its destination, the package was empty and the watch was nowhere to be found.
Several years ago, a certain Stephen Morley claimed that the old Omega Speedmaster he bought from a weekly publication seller was the long-lost Buzz Aldrin Moonwatch. He filed a lawsuit to determine if either NASA or the Smithsonian would confirm its authenticity. Neither of them would confirm nor deny if the Speedmaster kept by Morley was the authentic first watch on the moon. However, they stated that if the watch was indeed authentic, then ownership of the item should be held by the US government.
Until this day, the whereabouts of the original Moonwatch is still under dispute. But that doesn’t change the fact that the Omega Speedmaster made a very significant contribution to scientific history.
Iconic watches has a fantastic range of Speedmasters click here to see…
Since its conception in 1847, the “Jeweler of Kings and the Kings of Jeweler”, his descendants and eventual new owners, have continuously designed and manufactured the finest watch. Though the Cartier brand was founded by Louis-Francois Cartier, it was the genius of Louis Cartier, the grandson, which made Cartier, watches a leading watch brand in terms of innovations in technology more so with its bold and classic designs.
The golden years of the Cartier brand started at the turn of the 20th century and ended in 1942 at the death of Louis Cartier. The heirs of Cartier sold the company to groups of investors in 1964. By 1968, Cartier added lighters as one of their products. In 1973, Cartier bounced back as its new managing director of Cartier Paris Alain Dominique Perrin acquired the philosophy of “owning a Cartier is a must” thus unveiling the Les Must de Cartier collection.
The Cartier brand prospered and expanded. By 1976, Cartier Paris, London and New York were one again under one management. The legacy of Cartier was fueled once more by the different collections added to the “new” Cartier.
In 2001, Cartier launched the Roadster. A roadster, in automobile lingo, is a two-seater car that is synonymous with race cars. True to the meaning of “roadster” Cartier got the inspiration for the Roadster collection from the USA 1950s and 1960s car racing circuits, especially the Indiana 500. The Roaster collection is defined by its durability and the interchangeable straps.
The collection has sleek and solid curves that are reminiscent of Cartier’s Tortue model. The collection closely embodies the seemingly reckless abandonment of the time when Roadsters roamed the streets. However, the nostalgic lines are integrated with modern watch technology making Roadster watches a great combination of strength, beauty, technology and timelessness. It is a modern and classic watch rolled into one superlative design. The crown of the watch looks like a radiator.
The Roadster Collection models are simple yet sophisticated in design. The case is steel yet the owner has the option to go for the steel or leather bracelet. The options make the watch a perfect choice for persons who simply need to transform their watches from sporty to dressy and vice-versa.
Most Roadster models have automatic movements. There are models for men and women with sizes varying from small to extra large – 30 mm to 47.6 mm. Price range is from £1200 to £40,000. Iconic Watches has many Roasters on offer at 20% RRP
The Panerai Watch Company has been around since the 1860s. It is an Italian brand and pitted against the commercial success of known Swiss brands. The brand catered more to the needs of the navy for precision timepieces. Panerai was the official supplier of watches for the Italian Navy for it was able to design and manufacture timepieces that can withstand extreme weather and underwater conditions.
In 1972, Panerai officially became Panerai Office and the brand was still closely linked to the Italian Royal Navy. However, in 1993, Panerai’s Marina Militare timepieces were no longer feasible with the Italian navy. The model was said to be no longer cost-effective and no longer meets the requirements of the navy. The company could not just fold as its heritage had too much to offer so the company opened its first retail shop for the public sometime in 1993-94. The brand was of no consequence, Panerai was an obscure brand until Sylvester Stallone.
Great watches are just meant to be. It was said that Stallone spotted a Panerai watch on display at a shop in Rome. The actual watch was a Panerai Luminor Chrono and old Sly had to get one to use for his blockbuster movie “Daylight”. Panerai must have thanked its lucky star when Stallone ordered a bunch of Panerais with his signature at the back case – “Slytech”. He gave the watches as gifts to his friends including Arnold Schwarzenegger back in the USA. The rest was history. The watch gained exposure in the movie and thus gathered a following of the rich and famous thanks to Stallone. Among celebrity Panerai endorsers are former US President Bill Clinton, actors Brad Pitt, Pierce Brosnan, Orlando Bloom, Ben Affleck and Jason Statham.
Sylvester Stallone became Panerai’s number one celebrity endorser. He requested the watch company to make special editions to suit his needs like the personalized Mare Nostrum. In the latest installment of the Rambo movie series, the model was a Panerai PVD Luminor Marina Militare. Its black and non-reflective surface was perfect for Rambo’s stealth operations. ( Iconic Watches has one of these in stock for any budding John rambos)
In honor of Sylvester Stallone Panerai in 2005 launched a limited edition of 500 watches of the Stopwatch 1000M Slytech. The watch was specifically designed for underwater use of professional divers. Water resistant at 1000 meters the model has pressure and helium release valves. The is a Luminor with a 47 mm with a 27 rubies encrusted titanium case. Powered by a Panerai Cop XII mechanism, it has COSC certification as a chronometer. The royalties from the sale of this model goes to the heart foundation for children.
Vacheron Constantin watches tops the list in luxury watches. What is amazing with this watch company is the fact than in its more than 250 year of existence, the company’s history thrived on uninterrupted surviving Revolutions, World Wars, economic crises, and change of owners and administrators.
Vacheron Constantin is the oldest watch watchmaker in the world. It was founded in 1755 by a young and talented cabinotier, Jean-Marc Vacheron. Besides having a good head for business, Vacheron was also a fine watch craftsman. His dedication to the art and precision of watchmaking may well be the precedent of other Swiss watch companies that were founded more than a century later.
Vacheron’s first complication was made in 1770 in his shop in Saint Gervais, Geneva. It was here where Vacheron forged the brand that became one of the greatest names in the watch industry. The brand was worn by Napoleon Bonaparte and there is speculation that Bonaparte could have been wearing a Vacheron during the Battle of Waterloo which really fires up the imagination.
The company was turned over to Vacheron’s son and later to his grandson. In 1819 the heirs of Vacheron hired an outsider, Francois Constantin. He single-handedly marketed Vacheron et Constantin watches all over Europe and North America. When Georges-Auguste Leschot joined the company in 1839, he fantastically standardized the movements into calibers. Vacheron et Constantin became industry pioneers and led the watch industry as awards and recognitions were afforded to the company.
Upon the death of Vacheron’s direct heirs and that of Constatin, the company fell into the hands of various heirs. However, the company never missed a beat as it continued to innovate in watch technology. In 1877 the official name of the watch company was Vacheron & Constantin, Fabricants, Geneve and its logo was and still is the Maltese cross.
For its bicentennial celebration, the company produced the thinnest movement at 1. 62 mm. To mark the beginning of its third century of watchmaking, Vacheron Constantin (since 1970) produced the thinnest watch at 5.25 mm called the Patrimony. This was when the company was under the administration of George Ketter. Jacques Ketter took over the company and it was during his time the most expensive watch of that era was made. The Kallista was valued at £3.3 million. It was made directly into a gold ingot and then peppered with 130 carat emerald cut diamonds. Today, this watch is valued at £7 million.
In 2005, as tribute to the company’s 250th anniversary, the “Tour de I’lle” was launched. It was one of the world’s most complicated watches with its 16 horological complications and 834 parts; priced at $1 million.
Currently Vacheron Constantin has seven major collections namely: Patrimony; Malte; Quai de L’ile, Overseas; Ladies Timepieces; Historiques and Métiers D Art.
Patrimony is Vacheron Constantin’s classics. The designs are simple yet elegant and contemporary. A fine sample is the Classique, a 35 mm yellow gold watch with croco strap pegged at £7,000.
The Malte collection is one of major collections. The designs are contemporary and use the latest innovations in watch technology. The Malte Tonneau Tourbillon in platinum is set at £150,000. Iconic Watches is proud to have a Malte tourbillon instock.
The Quai de L’ile collection makes use of cutting edge watch technologies in perfect combination with traditional watchmaking. This line of watch can be personalized according to a customer’s preference.
The Overseas collection is Vacheron Constantin’s answer to contemporary sports watches. Its Chronographe yellow gold, 42 mm automatic is priced at £30,000.
The Ladies Timepieces collection showcases bold, daring lady’s watches. The Egérie white gold at 27.50 mm is dearly priced at £60,000.
Historiques is a collection of revivals of legendary timepieces of Vacheron Constantin watches. The Toledo 1952 is automatic is at £20,000.
Métiers D Art is a collection of artful and haute jewelry watches that only Vacheron Constantin can offer. The Kalla Duchesse in white gold, 45 mm, and hand wound mechanism is priced at £750,000.
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A Breitling is a pilot’s watch. It has been so since the brand conceptualized the first wrist chronograph in 1915. Founded in 1884 by Leon Breitling, the company started out as a small workshop in St. Imier, Switzerland that specializes in chronographs and precision counters for industrial and scientific quests. In 1892, the company moved to a bigger factory in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the center of Swiss watch making industry.
When Leon Breitling died, his son Gaston took over. Gaston’s chronograph propelled the company’s success as he provided pilots with their first precision wristwatch chronographs (1915) and the first pushpiece chronograph in 1923. It was Gaston’s son Willy who took over the family business in 1932, By 1936, Breitling was the supplier of the Royal Air Force. In 1942, the Chronomat was launched. It was different as it was fitted with a circular slide rule.
The American Armed Forces used the Navitimer, a wristwatch complete with the necessary navigation instruments to handle all calculations needed to make a flight plan. Breitling timepieces became known as the Official Supplier to World Aviation on top of its title of Instruments for Professionals™.
What makes all Breitling watches unique is the fact that each calibre and movement used by the brand undergoes stringent tests done by Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC). To date, it is the only Swiss brand watch that submits all watches to this procedure as initiated by Ernest Schneider and his son Theodore, the new owners of Breitling Watch Company. Breitling’s Super Quartz, is also the only electronic movement to pass COCS standards and provides 10 times the accuracy of regular quartz.
Breitling offers four major collections namely the Navitimer, the Windrider, the Professional and the Aeromarine. Other collections are the Breitling for Bentley and the Limited edition timepieces.
The Navitimer is probably the most iconic of all Breitling’s timepieces because of its affinity with pilots since 1952 by providing not only precision timing but computing and converting capabilities. It is the official watch of AOPA (Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association), the world’s largest association of pilots and aircraft owners. The oldest world chronograph is the Navitimer 806, launched in 1952. Other models under the Navitimer collections are: Navitimer World; Cosmonaute; Montbrillant and Chronomatic. The Navitimer World is unique because it can indicate four time zones.
The Cosmonaute was conceptualized for a space-going version of the Navitimer. Since night and day are meaningless in space, the technicians of Breitling designed a 24-hour dial version. Today’s model has a Breitling 22 movement, a 42-hour power reserve, water resistant at 30 meters, bidirectional bezel, a push-down crown and flyback chronograph complication.
The Windrider collection has the Chronomat, Chronomat B01, Cockpit, Chrono Cockpit, Cockpit Lady, Starliner and Blackbird. The Chronomat is the best seller in this collection. The B01 was launched in 2009 and is the first movement that was designed and manufactured in-house by Breitling. It has a power reserve of 70 hours, with a water resistance of 100 meters for the pink gold edition and 500 meters for the steel version. It has a unidirectional bezel and a screwdown crown, sapphire crystal and complications of 47 jewels, auto-centering reset hammers, instantaneous date and customizable index regulator system. Price range is from £4,300 to £30,000.
The Professional series is the ultimate in watch instrumentation. The collection has the Emergency, Aerospace, Airwolf, Airwolf Raven, Skyracer, Skyracer Raven and the Co-Pilot models. The Breitling Emergency was designed and manufactured originally for pilots and aircrews. It has a built-in micro-transmitter that can broadcast on the 121.5 MHz emergency frequency of aircrafts. Following a crash, the watch will transmit a distress signal complementary to any aircraft. Transmitter is activated for 48 hours and has a range of 160 km. Battery change should be done by a qualified technician as the procedure is quite complicated. Price starts at £4,290.00.
Necessity is definitely the father of invention. For a considerable amount of time, wristwatches were not just considered as devices to keep track of time, but were also considered as items of jewelry. Spotting this unique fact about personal timepieces, childhood friends Bruno Belamich and Carlos A. Rosillo collaborated to develop utilitarian watches for extreme situations. Together, they built a watch manufacturing company that operates on the idea that “function forms shape.”
In 1992, they gathered together a team of designers, as well as space and aircraft control specialists to develop a line of watches made especially for a specific purpose. People such as pilots, astronauts, divers and bomb disposal experts are subject to pressures which are virtually unheard of by normal citizens. Exceptionally high or low temperatures and violent accelerations are just a couple of examples of these pressures. These are studied by Bell & Ross and they aim to develop timepieces that are able to withstand the demands of the job.
When Belamich & Rosillo formed a partnership with Sinn, a highly reputable manufacturer of dashboard meters, that was when the idea of manufacturing utilitarian watches really took off. Hydro and Space 1 was the result of this collaboration.
Space 1 was the first autonomic chronometer worn in space. It was worn by on the Spacelab mission in 1983 by Reinhart Furrer, a German astronaut. The Space 1 model was re-issued in 1994.
In 1996, the French Security Services requested the creation of a special watch meant for use by bomb disposal personnel. This resulted in the introduction of the Bomb Disposal Type line by Bell & Ross, which is anti-magnetic and has the precision and reliability required by the special needs of a bomb disposal mission.
Under water, divers will find it difficult to have any concept of time. Therefore, when the Hydro Challenger was introduced in 1997, they were now able to keep track of time even at 11,000 meters deep under water. This record is included at the Guinness Book of World Records.
In 1998, Bell & Ross decided to make an updated version of the Space 1. So the Space 3 types were created. It is equipped with a T-crown system, which is a retractable telescopic winding crown that is screwed down. This enabled the winding crown to be fitted into the whole depth of the case.
1998 was also the same year that Chanel Horlogerie decided to be one of the Bell & Ross’ major shareholders. After two years, Chanel Horlogerie increased their stake in the company but leaving Bell & Ross to remain as majority shareholder.
Bell & Ross then decided to develop a special men’s watch called Function. It is a modern multi-function watch that combines the modern movement’s analog and digital display with a classic style.
In 2002, Bell & Ross decided to make another collaboration, this time with Swiss master watch craftsman Vincent Calabrese. As a result of this cooperation, the Vintage 123 Heure Sautante was introduced. This is an automatic movement watch that provides the wearer an easy but unique way to tell the time as it was the first watch that has a power reserve indicator on its hour hand.
Bell & Ross finally decided to develop a special ladies’ watch line in 2003 called the Mystery Diamond. Not one for sacrificing function for a feminine design, the watches in this line showcases a floating diamond to tell the time. The diamond magically floats around the face of the watch, in between the dial and the case.
The latest line of watches released by the sports and utilitarian watch manufacturer is the BR 01 line, the design of which was derived from an airplane clock.
It is amazing what some people are able to achieve with hard work and the will to succeed. That is how Antoine LeCoultre lived his life. Compared to his contemporaries who had normally acquired their skills from their parents or through the family business, Antoine LeCoultre’s watch-making skills were self-taught. His love for watches and what makes them tick enabled him to set up his own little workshop in 1833, at the age of 30.
Despite being self-taught, Antoine LeCoultre’s brilliant mind and mechanical skills were ahead of its time, astonishing even the most gifted physicists and engineers. He was the one who created the millionometer in 1844, which has enabled him to measure the micrometer or the micron. The millionometer has the ability to measure to the nearest thousandth of a millimeter. This device was thought to be so precise, that its inaccuracy cannot be measured by any tool.
Three years later, in 1847, Antoine LeCoultre once again revolutionized the watch-making industry by inventing a system that enabled the setting and rewinding of watches without a key. All one needed to do then was to push a button and the function of the watch will switch.
As the Switch watch-making industry grew, the need to make the small LeCoultre workshop in Le Sentier into a Manufacture became inevitable. This was spearheaded by Elie LeCoultre, Antoine’s son. By transforming the workshop into a Manufactures, they were now able to control all aspects of the manufacturing and assembly of the watches. They have also benefited from the pool of knowledge that was offered by their employees. Thus, the first Manufacture in Vallee de Joux, LeCoultre & Cie, was born.
When Edmund Jaeger challenged Edmund Jaeger to produce ultra-thin caliber versions of his own design in 1903, it was Antoine’s grandson, Jacques-David LeCoultre, who took on the challenge. From this point onwards, the relationship between Jaeger and LeCoultre resulted in other ultra-thin pocket watch collaborations and also the JLC Caliber 145 produced in 1907. This particular design set the record for having the thinnest movement at 1.38mm.
Unfortunately, the growth of the Jaeger LeCoultre brand also came with its share of difficulties. It drew criticism from being unable to service watches at the appropriate time spans, making clients wait for a long while to get their watches serviced. There has also been some confusion in North America as to whether Jaeger LeCoultre watches were the same watches distributed by Longines-Wittnauer group in the 1950’s, due to the change in brand name. This was because some collectors were unaware that Longines-Wittnauer only distributed the watches and did not manufacture them.
In 1928, Jean-Leon Reutter invented the Atmos Clock. It is a magnificent timekeeping device that is perpetually in motion and will never stop. It amazingly draws energy from the slight variations in atmospheric pressure. Jaeger-LeCoultre is the Manufacture that developed further and produces this clock, which to this day holds the prestigious honor of being the official gift of the Swiss government.
Through its existence, the Jaeger LeCoultre Manufacture has been able to produce and create over 1,000 calibers, with complications incorporated in more than half of them. Each new development was conceptualized using original technical solutions, combined with functionality, precision and fine watch-making.
Among the Jaeger LeCoultre lines of watches, the Reverso is one of the most distinguished. The watch models of this line are elegantly crafted in the Art Deco style and its case has the ability to rotate on itself by sliding along its base. It invites the wearer to “play with the time” and to convert the watch into fine jewelry.
Like a couple other Swiss watch brands such as Zenith and Tissott, Ulysse Nardin started building his watch-making business in Le Locle, found in Neuchâtel. Born in 1823, the young Ulysse Nardin dreamed of taking after his father, Leonard-Frederic, who was himself a master watchmaker. Leonard-Frederic specialized in making watches and alarm clocks and Ulysse trained under his father in the art of horology.
However, it would seem that Ulysse Nardin’s thirst for watch-making knowledge would lead him to train under two other masters of timekeeping at the time. These were Louis Jean Richard-dit-Bressel and Frederic William Dubois. Armed with quality education and tons of ambition, Ulysse Nardin started his own watch-making company in 1846 at the age of 24 years old.
Many watch manufacturers in Switzerland at the time specialized in developing accurate clocks and timepieces. The Ulysse Nardin factory, on the other hand, specialized in marine chronometers. These are chronometers developed especially for the maritime industry, with which they can calculate their exact location accurately at sea and be able to return the ships to their home docks safely. Swiss marine chronometers, especially Ulysse Nardin’s, were thought to be some of the best marine chronometers because of their accuracy.
Since its founding, the Ulysse Nardin manufacture released many high-quality, accurate and complicated chronometers. The brand became a legend in its own right by winning many awards for their developments. Their chronometers have won a total of 14 First Prizes (Grand Prix), 10 Gold Medals, 2 Silver Medals, 2 Prix d’Honneur, 1 Progress Medal and 1 Prize Medal at the London International Exhibition in 1862. These prizes were won at various venues including London, Paris, Tokyo and Buenos Aires.
Ulysse Nardin managed his prestigious company until his passing some thirty years later. He was succeeded by his son, Paul-David, who was then only 21 years old.
Before the advent of quartz watches in 1875, watches were certified and calibrated in astronomical observatories. This is because one second in time is determined in relation to the earth’s rotation. In Switzerland, these calibrations and certifications were mainly done at the Observatoire Cantonal de Neuchâtel. Ulysse Nardin received 4,324 certificates out of the total of 4,504 issued between the years 1846 to 1975.
Ulysse Nardin was acquired by Rolf W. Schnyder in 1983. Schnyder brought in Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, an inventor, scientist, historian and master watch-maker, to help him re-launch the brand. Together, they aimed to develop timepieces that were amazingly complicated and were non-existent at the time. As a result of their collaboration, the Trilogy of Time was introduced. The first of these watches was the Astrolabium Galilelo Galilei. Revealed in 1985, it displays the solar and local time, the eclipses and orbits of the moon and the sun, as well as the position of several major stars. This watch made it into the Guinness Book of World Records as the watch with the most functions, which are 21 in total. The Planetarium Copernicus followed the Astrolabium Galileo Galilei in 1988 and finally in 1992, the Tellurium Johannes Kepler was unveiled.
Currently, Ulysse Nardin prides itself in the development of complicated watches that showcase their precision and impeccable technique. Therefore, the Ulysse Nardin Complications is one of its major lines of watches. The Trilogy of Time is part of this line, as well as the Freak and Hourstriker models.
The frequent traveler will surely appreciate Ulysse Nardin’s GMT Dual Time Big Date line of watches. These watches have a unique patented design where the user can just push two buttons to adjust the hour hand forwards or backwards, separately from the minute and second hands. The home time can be read on a window display for convenience.
The Nardin range also include the maxi marine range which continues the companies tradition with naval chronographs. All the range can be seen at www.iconicwatches.co.uk
Georges Favre-Jacot was a man with a vision at the young age of 22 years. He was a well-renowned clock-maker back in 1875, who brought together a third of the independent watch artisans in Le Locle, in the canton or federal state of Neuchâtel in Switzerland, under one roof. It was then that this manufacture d’horlogerie or watch-making manufacturer was born and the quality improvement and standardization of watch-making started to improve.
It was in 1865 that Georges Favre-Jacot started his own clock-making business. As the years went by, the business grew and he began producing precise, but reasonably priced watches. However, it was not until the manufacturer won the Gold Medal at the Swiss National Exhibition that the watches began to get truly appreciated. Several years later, in 1903, Favre-Jacot’s chronometer received first prize at the Neuchâtel Observatory chronometer competition.
By the time Favre-Jacot retired in 1911, the manufacturer’s watches already bore the brand name Zenith and the company was handed down to the family’s younger generation. Unfortunately, the watch manufacturing pioneer would not live long enough to see his beloved company release its first line of wristwatches in 1920. He passed away three years before that milestone.
The popularity of Zenith wristwatches grew astonishingly through the years. Their wristwatch chronometers received the first prize at the wristwatch competition of the Neuchâtel Observatory in 1954. Until now, Zenith remains as one of the few watch manufacturers who produce their own actual movements and they have won around 1,500 watch industry awards to date.
In a big move towards expanding the business, Zenith took over the Martel Watch Co. in 1960. Martel was a Swiss watch brand that was founded in 1911. The take-over helped Zenith with the development of the Universels caliber 285 and 749, which eventually became part of the Zenith 146 family.
1969 marked a major turning point in the watch-making industry when Zenith released the legendary El Primero chronograph movement that year. The El Primero was the first chronograph caliber to have a winding crown with central rotor, also known as automatic winding. Beating at 36,000 alternations per hour, the El Primero was also known as the fastest chronograph and has set the standard for mechanical excellence. Most chronographs at the time only make 28,000 alternations per hour. Due to its 36,000 alternations, the El Primero has become the world’s most precise chronograph. The El Primero is also the only one that can measure very short time intervals of 1/10th of a second, compared to other chronographs.
Ironically, quartz was introduced to the watch manufacturing world just when the El Primero was making waves. Quartz posed a great threat to the traditional Swiss watch industry and many companies have shut down as a result. Fortunately, Zenith was able to weather the storm by supplying other prestigious watch companies with the El Primero movement. Rolex Daytona was one of these clients.
In 1999, Zenith was acquired by Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy (also known as the LVMH group) and now offers Zenith watches together with other watch and jewelry brands under the luxury giant’s wing.
Zenith presently has six lines of watches.
The Zenith Chronomaster has a classic design, which comes in a wide range of materials from the ultra-modern carbon fiber or Titanium to traditional stainless steel, to house the El Primero movement. It also has the whole gamut of dials that would interest the most technically discerning watch enthusiast. The active, urban man will surely appreciate a Zenith Port-Royal watch, with its modern casing for the El Primeromovement. The Zenith Class line suits businessmen, with its classic and minimalistic design approach. For the active sportsman, there is the Zenith Defy series of watches. For those who prefer to show of the sparkle of luxury, the Zenith Star models will be perfect as baguette diamonds and tourbillion are incorporated into the designs.
I always felt that Vacheron Constantin deserved to stand in the limelight that its more notorious rival Patek always has. After all, there’s not that much difference between the identities of the two brands: high end conservative stylings with a sport model or two (the Nautilus and the Overseas respectively). Patek just happens to be considered the end-all be-all in the luxury watch world, while VC vies for attention from prospective buyers of brands like A. Lange & Söhne, Breguet and so on. While certainly not a poor market segment to be in, I hope the Richemont-owned company further elevates to the timeless status that Vacheron Constantin deserves.
Notably, another characteristic that sets VC apart from Patek is its willingness to produce timepieces that are a little more, shall we say, out there. Whether or not this is beneficial with regard to the brand’s identity (wicked tongues will tell you that Rolex’s success is mainly due to more or less staying the same for decades) is hard to tell, and time will probably do such. As it stands today, the only thing you really can do is judge the more eccentric offerings by themselves.
Luckily, they are a feast for the eye. A prime example is the Malte Tourbillon that turned up on JamesList just last week. Sporting a hand-wound 1790R caliber, this rose gold tonneau beauty features a tourbillon bearing the Maltese cross, the symbol of Vacheron Constantin. Its diameter is only 36mm but obviously wears a lot larger because of the art deco shape. The in-house movement has a power reserve of 45 hours
Ferdinand A. Lange was a fine watchmaker from Dresden, Germany. In his humanitarian quest to give the people of Glashütte jobs and uplift the economic status of the town, he established a modest watch factory that initially set to train up 15 apprentices in 1845. Lange’s passion and dedication to his craft resulted in high quality watches, this continued until his death in 1868, where his sons Emil and Richard operated under the father’s name A. Lange & Söhne. Richard Lange was a fine horologist just like his father and during his time with the company his most important discovery was patented. The patent was for “Metal Alloy for Watch Springs” in which beryllium was added to the metal used for balance spring. This eventually resulted in the creation of the Nivarox balance spring that is used in most high end mechanical watches today.
Under Richard Lange the company flourished and had a further 27 patents. However by the time the company entered its third generation, Lange & Söhnehad alreadyendured both WW I and II. It was with the destruction of the Lange factory during WW II and the subsequent division of Germany that tragically brought a 40-year hiatus to the company. Walter Lange, a fourth generation Lange, re-founded and re-established A. Lange & Söhneon December 7, 1990; exactly 145 years after his great-grandfather first founded it.
With just a skeletal force A. Lange & Söhne came out with a new set of Lange watches four years later. The first collection of wristwatches was the Lange 1, the Saxonia, the Arkade and the Tourbillon “Pour le Mérite”.
To pay homage to the 165th year of A. Lange & Söhne, the collection Homage to F.A. Lange Edition has the Tourbograph “Pour le Mérite”, Lange 1 Tourbillon and the 1815 Moonphase. The unique aspect to these pieces is a special honey-gold metal alloy used for the anniversary timepieces.
How exclusive are these time pieces?
The Tourbograph “Pour le Mérite” “Homage to F. A. Lange” is a limited edition of 101 pieces. As of this writing there are only currently 51 pieces made. The completion of the next 50 pieces will take a while to finish since the manufacture of this timepiece takes a month to finish.
The Lange 1 Tourbillon “Homage to F. A. Lange” is perfection in motion. This anniversary timepiece has a patented stop-seconds mechanism allowing the owner to stop the balance at any point. For better visuals, the tourbillon aperture in the dial is expanded.
The 1815 Moonphase “Homage to F. A. Lange” is also in 18 karat honey-colored gold. This watch needs no resetting as long as the watch runs without interruption and is set to the correct time. The moon phase of this timepiece would have to be eventually corrected by one day, after 1058 years.
The 1815 MOONPHASE “Homage to F. A. Lange” in 18-carat honey-colored gold is an impressive demonstration of how Lange’s master watchmakers interpret accurate time measurement: provided the watch runs without interruption and remains set to the correct time, it will take 1058 years before the moon phase of this masterpiece needs to be corrected by one day.
To date A. Lange & Söhne has several collections: Lange Zeitwerk; Lange 1; Saxonia; 1815; Richard Lange; Datograph; Cabaret; Double Split; Langematik Perpetual; Lange 31 and Jeweled timepieces.
What makes A. Lange & Söhne watches stand out are the company’s ability to merge the traditional elements with innovative technology. Every A. Lange & Söhne watch has the following traditional elements: whiplash precision index adjuster; hand-engraved balance cock; screwed gold chatons; up/down power reserve indicator; a ¾ plate; untreated German silver; blued screws; fusée and chain and the diamond endstone.
A. Lange & Söhne is now under the wings of Richemont group of companies. In 2007 the company released a mechanical watch with a 31-day reserve. The watch only needs to be wound monthly by a special key. The 46 mm wide and 16 mm deep platinum and rose gold watch is modestly priced at $180,000.
IWC is International Watch Company. Founded in 1868 by an American engineer Florentine Ariosto Jones IWC was intended to be the result of fine Swiss watch craftsmanship and American modern watch technology. Swiss watches assembly lines and home-factories were (and still are) located in the western part of Switzerland. IWC is located in Schaffhausen in the north-eastern region of Switzerland because it was where F.A. Jones met no opposition in establishing his watch company.
It was good than an enterprising man from Schaffhausen saw the need for the sleepy town to saw the need for the sleepy town get on the bandwagon of the Industrial Revolution. Johann Heinrich Moser and F.A. Jones met and set up the first and only watch company in Schaffhausen. By 1875, IWC had 196 employees working in the newly built IWC factory.
In 1880, the company changed ownership. The new owner was Johann Rauschenbach-Vogel, a proprietorship that lasted for more than a hundred years and four generation of Rauschenbachs. IWC had changed names several times according to the preference of the new man at the reigns. International Uhrenfabrik, Uhrenfabrik Von J. Rauschenbach, Uhrenfabrik Von J.Rauschenbach’s Erben and Uhrenfabrik von Ernst Homberger-Rauschenbach were the various names adapted by IWC. The last Rauschenbach to hold sole proprietorship of the company was Hans Ernst Homberger. In 1978, when the watch company was absorbed by the VDO Adolf Schindling AG, it reverted to its former name of IWC.
Through the years IWC had maintained its company motto of Probus Scafusia – which means good, solid craftsmanship from Schaffhausen. So great was their thrust on perfection that at the start of the 20th century working hours at the watch factory was from 6 A.M. to 7 P.M.
The company went through a lot of changes and events. Its factory was even mistakenly bombed by American forces in 1944. Through it all, name changes et al, IWC continued to innovate in the watch industry. From its 19th century Pallweber movement “digital” pocket watch up to its newer Pilot watch models of today, the best Swiss craftsmanship and technology have been implemented.
IWC came out with the first wristwatch for men 1899. In 1927, its 18 karat women’s dress watch in Art Deco was one of its kind. Before the advent of big wristwatches, IWC came up with its Portuguese wristwatch version of 74 and 98 calibres. IWC’s assembly line produced its first pilot watch in 1939. In 1954 IWC’s Ingenieur antimagnetic watch with an automatic movement.
To date there are nine collections of watches from IWC: UTC Pilot’s watch; Da Vinci chronograph; Calibre 5000; GST Chrono-Rattrapante and Perpetual calendar; Big Pilot’s watch; Portugieser Perpetual watch; the Aquatimer and the Ingenieur automatic.
The UTC pilot’s watch allows for the dual display of time from “home” and from the new time zone. There would be no confusion in time as one hops from one time zone to another. UTC stands for Universal Time Coordinator.
The Da Vinci chronograph uses the 89360 chronograph movement by IWC. It uses IWC’s automatic double-pawl winding system where it offers an innovative watch that functions both as a stopwatch and a single inner dial time measurement display.
The Calibre 5000 can run for 7/24 without winding. It stops after exactly 168 hours. This model is a limited edition with its Pellaton winding mechanism and a skeleton rotor with a gold medallion.
The GST Chrono-Rattrapante’s amazing feature is its 498 perpetual calendar. It is a sports watch yet elegant and highly technical.
The Big Pilot watch is “big” at 46 mm. This model uses Caliber 5001 developed by IWC. On the other hand the Portuguese uses 50611. Aside from its basic functions it also has the most accurate moon phase display. The Aquatimer was launched in 1967 and has become an accepted name in the world of diving.
Do you have an IWC watch? IWC repair service promises parts and repair of watches since its foundation.
Breguet has the historical honour of being Marie Antoinette’s favourite brand. Founded in Paris in 1775 by Neuchâtel-born Abraham Louis Breguet, the brand has had the privilege of providing watches for the elites in the military, scientific, diplomatic and financial world and the crème de la crème who preferred Breguet’s time pieces. Owning a Breguet watch is an epitome of luxury, time precision and the distinction of being one of the “elite”.
As one of the oldest watch making company, Breguet was the innovator of many “firsts” in the world of horology. His first self-winding watch was the “perpetuelles” in 1780. In 1783, its signature open-tipped hands called the Breguet’s hands and the Breguet’s Arabic numeral came out. Before the turn of the 19th century, Breguet had invented the gong spring for the minute repeater, guilloche dials, ratchet key, an anti-shock device, the development of the perpetual calendar, musical chronometer, and the tact watch. Breguet’s greatest contribution in the watch-making industry is the tourbillion regulator in 1801. The first wristwatch was commissioned by the Queen of Naples, Carol Murat, in 1812. Before the half of the 19th century, the forerunners of the chronograph and the marine chronometer were already in the assembly line.
What makes Breguet’s creation more sought after was the fact that the time pieces made by A.L. Breguet were of superior craftsmanship and quality. Add the fact that its endorsers are no less than King Louie XVI, Napoleon Bonaparte, and Queen Victoria. George Washington, Tsar Alexander I and more. The brand of watch was also owned by fictional characters such as Phileas Fogg of Around the World in Eighty Days and Dr. Lorrain of War and Peace.
Each Breguet watch can be easily identified by the coin-edge cases called case band fluting, its guilloche dial featuring the iconic hollow eccentric moon hands and its blue signature Breguet hands. There is probably more imitation Breguets than originals. However, an original and authentic Breguet watch has a secret signature that only a true Breguet watch possesses.
To date, Breguet is now part of the Swatch Group of Companies. It has retained its truthfulness to the mission and vision of A.L. Breguet. Current collections are the: Traditions; Classique; Classique Complications; Marine; Heritage; Type XX and XXI; Reine de Naples (exclusive to women) and high jewellery watches.
Tradition collection is merger of the Breguet’s Souscription watch and modern technology. The look is avant-garde, technology is state-of-the-art but the general look and “feel” of the collection is reminiscent of the first creations of A.L. Breguet.
Classique collection features the simple yet elegant style of Breguet’s original watches. Classique Complications watches include four functions that have been perfected by the genius of the man himself: tourbillion; hand-wound movement that has been engraved manually; perpetual calendar that includes day-date, month and leap years; and small seconds on the tourbillion shaft itself and minute repeaters.
Marine collection passes the standards of the French navy chronometer. Water resistance is from 30 meter to 100 meters.
The Heritage collection does not have the signature round coin-edge casing but the curved tonneau case. Still, the collection looks like a Breguet.
The Type XX and Type XXI are patterned after the French Naval-Air military’s sturdy chronographs of the bygone World War II-era pilot’s watch.
An exclusive women’s line is the Reine de Naples, based on the first women’s wristwatch ordered by Caroline of Murat. Feminine and beautiful, the collection holds true the high quality and elegance of Breguet time pieces. A more bejewelled version is the collection of high jewellery watches. Each design from this collection is of 18 karat gold (white or red) and paved with diamonds in. Water resistance is up to 15 meters. But then, who would want to wet such a fine piece of a wristwatch?
It is a defining moment when our watch shop has the opportunity to sell one of the rarest watches in the world…
Iconic watches is extremely pleased to have this beautiful watch in stock. It really is one of the most stunning watches I have ever seen and is just fascinating to watch with its rotating Maltese cross tourbillon movement. (see video below)
In a horologists terms, a tourbillon or ”whirlwind” is an addition to the mechanics of a watches escapement that counters the effects of gravity by mounting the escapement and balance wheel in a rotating cage, in order to negate the effect of gravity when the timepiece (and thus the escapement) is rotated. Its hard to believe that the movement was1st devised in 1795 by the master watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet.
The Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon Regulator invisible setting watch accommodates the hand-wound 1790R caliber, visible through a transparent sapphire crystal case-back. The completely finished-by-hand movement has been designed and manufactured in-house.
The movement boasts exquisite finishing – it is embellished by Cotes-de-Geneve patterns on bridges, fine chamfering on edges, and beveled or finely polished screws and jewel sinks. The movement, with a balance frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour, gives an advantage of a40-hour power reserve.
Some facts are below:
Mens Size
Model 30066/000R-8816
Mechanical Wind Movement
36mm Diameter
Leather Strap
Rose Gold Watchcase
Features: Hand Wound Movement, Hours, Minutes, Tourbillon, Power Reserve Indicator, Date
Switzerland has always been associated with quality watches. It could be said that majority of fine watchmakers are Swiss. Switzerland has produced some of the best watchmakers of our time.
Michael Parmigiani was 25 years old when he out up the Parmigiani Mesure et Art du Temps in Fleurier, Switzerland. The company focused more in watch repair than in the manufacture of watches. Parmigiani is an outstanding watchmaker for it was he who repaired Breguet’s Pendule Sympatetique which even the “experts” in Breguet deemed quite an impossible feat.
In 1996, Sandoz Family Foundation bought a controlling hold on Parmigini’s company. Sandoz is a trusted name in Swiss watches since 1870. In 1971, the company split up into four divisions: Sandoz Hong Kong; Sandoz Singapore; Sandoz Spain and Sandoz Swiss. The four groups of company are all under the Sandoz umbrella but each group has its own collections. Sandoz Swiss takes care of the high-end luxury units. In 1996, Parmigiani released its first line of watches for men and women and a Grande Complication. In watch technology a “complication” means that the features are more than a display of time, date and day. Complications encompass 24-hour watch, tourbillon, chronograph, moon phases, perpetual calendar, minute repeater and more.
In 2001, Sandoz acquired three other companies. They are Bruno Affolter, a company that makes watch cases, SA, Atokalpa SA and Elwin SA, both manufacturers of watch components. The three companies merged in 2003 to form the Vaucher Manufacturer which makes the components needed by Parmagiani watches. By the same year, Parmigiani Mesure et Art du Temps which means The Measurement of Art and Time, was renamed Parmigiani Fleurier.
Parmigiani watches are divided into three major lines – for men, women and novelty items. The women’s collection comprise of Kalpa Piccola; Kalpa Donna; Kalparisma; Kalpa Grande; Chronograph; the Chronograph Fly-back; the Quantieme Perpetuel Retrograde; the Tourbillon and Jewellerey. Under Jewellerey is the limited edition of Kalpa Grande Automatic Gold & Palladium –automatic winding movement with 55 hours of reserve power, with day-date, hours, minutes, and in 18 karat gold (yellow, white or rose) and 950 palladium finish. The Retrograde Perpetual calendar aside from its features of hours, minutes, seconds, precision moon phase, perpetual calendar with apertures are set with 60 baguette-cut diamonds. Case is in 18 karat gold and has the prestige of incorporating Hermes alligator with tongue buckle.
For men, the collection is composed of: Kalpa Grande; Kalpa XL; Tonda; Chronograph; Chronograph Fly-back; GMT; Retrograde Perpetual calendar; Tourbillon, Bugatti type 370; Grand Complications and the line of Limited Editions. Exceptional is the Bugatti type 370 series. This is the first watch that has a transverse movement which makes it possible for the dial to face the user as his hands grip the steering wheel of a car. This is the perfect watch for race car drivers. A limited edition came out of the assembly line to commemorate Bugatti’s centennial. Aptly called Bugatti Centenaire, there are only 200 pieces of this limited edition. The watch is very special as the Chevron engravings on each piece required more than 300 hours of superb craftsmanship to finish, thanks to the Philippe Bodenmann, unique and talented artisan. The two limited editions are in 18-karat rose gold and platinum 950. A regular Bugatti type 370 series watch is pegged at £200,000.
Under the novelty series are the Bugatti Atalante series for men and women; Kalparisma; Pershing 002; Pershing Tourbillon and the Tondagraph.
For a watch company that officially began in 2001, Parmigiani Fleurier is definitely among the top watch company today. Parmigiani’s humble beginning of a watch repairman is still evident as he continues to challenge himself in restoring historical time pieces.
CHANEL. The label itself bespeaks of haute couture, elegance, simplicity and class. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel is CHANEL. At the age of 26, 1909, Coco Chanel opened her own milliners shop in Paris. Her first customers were the mistresses of a hunting group that met in the apartment building that she rented. Chanel’s genius put her at the top of her craft that after only six years she had three shops.
In 1921, Ernest Beaux, a chemist presented her with five perfume formulas. Of the five, one became the top selling perfume in the world today, Chanel N° 5. In 1924, Coco Chanel and Pierre Wertheimer merged and founded Parfum Chanel of which Coco’s share was a meagre 10%.
The year 1935 was Chanel’s peak. She had a staff of over 4,000 and crowned heads and celebrities alike came to her for clothes and accessories. When World War II broke out, she closed shop, collaborated with the Nazis which was reason enough for her to go into exile in Switzerland after the war.
In 1954, she came back and opened shop this time with a full partnership with Pierre Wertheimer. She was the head designer of CHANEL until her death in 1971. The Wertheimer family took control of the house of CHANEL.
Not satisfied with their line of haute couture and off-the-rack clothing, fashion accessories, perfumes and jewellery, the House of Chanel ventured into the watchmaking industry in 1987. The creative director of Chanel then was Jacques Helleu; the designer of Chanel’s first watch aptly names “Premiere”. There are presently twelve Premiere watches in the collection and each one is precious. A fine example is the Premiere H214.[i] Set in 18k white gold and black ceramic this watch has its case and bracelet decked with diamonds.
In 2000, the Chanel J12 line of watches debuted. The J12 series are 38mm to 42 mm automatic watches that has some models were built as chronographs, some with diamonds, some built with high-tech ceramic.
In 2005 Chanel developed more sophisticated watches that were equipped with tourbillion. Thus, through credible Swiss watchmakers, the Chanel 05-T.1’ movement was developed. The line was further expanded with the addition of J12 Haute Joaillerie with an impressive 597 baguette diamonds. The Chanel J12 Tourbillon and J12 Joaillerie were also created. In 2007, the J12 GMT model came out of the assembly line.
In 2008 another exclusive movement for Chanel was developed by Audemars Piguet. The Chanel AP-3125 was a combination of AP3120 movement and Chanel’s J12. The J12 Calibre 3125 is made of black high-tech ceramic and 18 karat yellow gold. Diameter is 42 mm and has a power reserve of 60 hours.
Another line of is the whimsical Les Intemporelles de Chanel. The line has Camelia, Mademoiselle, 1932, Matelasse, and Chocolat. What make these watches capricious is their fanciful and youthful designs. Fil de Camelia H2510 is of 18 karat yellow gold with its “petals” and clasp set with diamonds on a white alligator strap. The movement is quartz. “Mademoiselle” is made of steel with either pink or black quilted strap. A variation is in 18 karat yellow gold bracelet set with Akoya cultured pearls. A quite elegant variation of the Mademoiselle watch is in 18 karat white gold , with a dial pavé-set with diamonds and Akoya cultured pearls for a bracelet. All are in quartz movement.
The newest model of the J12 line is the Chanel Retrograde Mysterieuse J12. The watch is perfectly round with no side winding crown to mar the watch’s perfect round shape. The winding crown is integrated in the dial between 10 and 20 minutes. The minute hand moves forward until it bumps up the crown. Then the minute hand reverses its journey as it positions itself on the other side of the crown. A digital display (between 5 o’clock and 6 o’clock) will show the minutes read when the hand cannot indicate the minutes. This model is limited to 10 pieces only.
The House of Chanel continues to its quest to be in the top of fine jewellery watchmaking.